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This site is a record of the changes that we made to our 1966 Mustang Convertible. Some of it is related to general automotive repair and some is related to car restoration.
Sometimes we may pose questions if we are stuck, and anyone may post a question or write to us if you need help with your project.
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| | Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:56 pm |
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This is a diagram of the convertible top frame design for a 1966 Mustang. This diagram includes all the bushings, bolts and part numbers for the entire top frame, including the weather stripping. Recently we completely removed the entire frame from our 1966 Mustang and found that many of the pivot bushings were broken, or missing. We later found out that many of those pieces are no longer sold or manufactured. (click for larger image) After we disassembled the frame we sanded and repainted most of it. Part number 51154 was bent and began to rust so we sanded it and then brought it to a local machine shop to straighten it and stengthen it with a few welds. After repainting the whole frame it looked like new. Now we had to figure out how to get the frame back together with rusted pins and missing pieces.
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| | Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:52 pm |
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Our Mustang Convertible was made in 1966 at the Dearborn, MI factory. It originally came with a code C engine. Below is the VIN code breakdown. Engine Codes | | 200 cid 1V 6cyl 120 hp | T | | 289 cid 2v V-8 200 hp | C | | 289 cid 4v V-8 225 hp | A | | 289 cid 4v V-8 271 hp | K |
| Vehicle Identification Number (Sample VIN 6TO7C100001) | | 6 | Last digit of Model Year (1966) | | T | Assembly Plant (F-Dearborn, R-San Jose, T-Metuchen) | | 07 | Body Code (07-coupe, 08-convertible, 09-fastback) | | C | Engine Code | | 100001 | Consecutive unit number |
66 FORD MUSTANG INTERIOR COLORS/INTERIOR TRIM CODE
Parchment with aqua - D7
Parchment with Palomino - D9
Luxury blue and white - 62
Parchment with Ivy gold - D8
Luxury red - 65
Luxury black - 66
Luxury Embergio and Parchment - 64
Luxury gold and white - 68
Luxury aqua and white - 67
Luxury parchment with burgundy - F3
Luxury Parchment with aqua - F7
Luxury Parchment with black - F6
Luxury Parchment with Embergio - F4
Luxury Parchment with blue - F2
Luxury Parchment with ivy Gold - F8
Luxury Parchment with palomino - F9
Bench blue - 32
Bench red - 35
Bench black - 36
Bench Parchment with blue - C2
Bench Parchment with burgundy - C3
bench Parchment with ivy gold - C8
Bench Parchment with palomino - C9
Parchment with blue - D2
Parchment with burgundy - D3
Parchment with Embergio - D4
Parchment with black - D6
Aqua with aqua - 27
Black with black - 26
Dark red with red - 25
Blue with blue - 22 66 FORD MUSTANG EXTERIOR COLORS/COLOR CODE
Raven Black - A
Wimbledon White - M
Sahara Beige - H
Nightmist Blue - K
Arcadian Blue - F
Antique Bronze - P
Dark Moss Green - Y7
Signalflare red - 5
Candyapple red - T
Tahoe turquoise - U
Sauterne Gold - Z
Vintage Burgundy - X
silver blue - Y
Embergio - V
Silver frost - 4
Springtime Yellow - 8
Ivy Green Metallic - R
Brittany Blue - Q 66 FORD MUSTANG FACTORY OPTIONS
- Power brakes
- Power steering
- Power convertible top
- Air conditioning
- AM Radio with tape system
- Vinyl roof
- Deluxe steering wheel
- Limited slip differential
- GT Equipment Group (225hp and 271hp V-8's)
- Electric windshield wipers with 2 speeds
- Deluxe front and rear seatbelts
- Tinted glass
- Radio and antenna
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| | Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:51 pm |
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The structure of the headlight system for the 1965 - 1966 Mustang leaves much to be desired about how much thought really went into the functional design of this car. There are four main connections to the body (part numbers 13100 & 13A045, figure 1), these connections are denoted with an "x" in the diagram. These tend to break quite easily and are difficult to fix. Replacing this part may be necessary depending upon how damaged yours is. The price is anywhere from $50 (used, make sure there is no damage to the four connection points) to about $90 for each side. The entire headlight bucket system is around $115 - $135 for each side, this includes all you need for a complete restoration. The main lense cover (part number 13064) was also broken at one of the four connections. The way these attach together is with clips (part numbers 357033-S) that you use with screws (part numbers 378852-S). Since we did not want to try to find these parts I went to Home Depot and used clips with screws (10-24, course threads) and super glue to mount them on all four corners. This worked very well and avoided the cost of replacing parts that are quite expensive, unless you are doing a complete restoration. (click to enarge)
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| | Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:51 pm |
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Occasionally you may need to replace a window bushing. If your quarter window does not work it is usually the bushing. They are made of plastic and are not designed to last forever. It is rather easy to replace the bushing (part number 23240), they cost around $1, or less if you are at a car show and pick up a bag of them. The rear quarter window uses two bushings and the front windows use three bushings. The easiest way we have found to replace a broken bushing is to loosen part number 303A30. It attaches to the car body and by loosening it you can pretty easily reattach the window arms with the bushings to the window frame assembly. Using this method it should take no longer than 15 minutes or less to replace the bushing. (click to enlarge)
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| | Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:51 pm |
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We recently repaired the driver side window on our 1966 Mustang, at first it seemed that the plastic window bushing was broken, or it had come off the track. It turned out that the problem was that on the window regulator (part number 23234) the triangle part broke off from the scissor arms. Apparently this is not a typical window problem but we were able to get ourselves a used window scissor regulator for $20, along with three new window bushings. A new window regulator goes for about $30 on the web. Installation is really pretty easy, as long as you do not bolt up the triangle part (three ½ inch bolts) before you place the three tracks in place with the bushings on them. Take off the interior door cover. Position the part inside the door and orient it properly. Place each bushing arm in the proper track and then move the triangle to the correct position and bolt it up. It is also easier to have someone hold the window while you are doing this. Or you can jam the window with a screw driver wrapped with a cloth. (click to enlarge) (click to enlarge)
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